This morning we needed to finish off the rest of the food supplies we laid in at the beginning of the week. Mark prepared the final Full English Breakfast including beans, but lacking the tomato and mushrooms normally served. As tomato growers ourselves, the sad specimens provided at these breakfasts are rarely eaten, at least by us. The sausage and bacon on the other hand is always delicious.
We did some preliminary packing and then turned the car towards Leyburn and a final stop for some stocking stuffers and a bottle of wine to take with us in the car for Saturday evening. Friday is Market Day in Leyburn, so the traffic around the square was busy. We were forced to park in the public lot a few blocks away from the Market Square and hoof it back. After purchasing some wine at Campbell’s we dropped in again at the Posthorn Tea Shoppe for a slice of Victoria Cake and a cup of tea before taking our leave and going towards Gunnerside.
This time we drove the high road, over the moors and through the army firing fields. Catterick Army Barracks is located just outside the City of Richmond, and this area is used for troop maneuvers. The Catterick Base is reputed to be the largest Army base in Europe. Similar to Bellevue’s relationship to Offutt AFB in Nebraska, Richmond provides a ready market for Catterick personnel and lots of economic support.
We dropped down through the village of Grinton and then followed the Swale River passing the Dales Bike shop. There is a lot of biking in this area of the Dales. In 2014, the Tour de France even held their opening stage here and the peloton went riding across the moors and over the bridge at Grinton.
We journeyed on again through Reeth, past its church and market square and followed the Swale along, eventually reaching Gunnerside. Our goal was the Kings Head Pub for dinner. Faithful readers may recall that our first stay in the Yorkshire Dales National Park was at Gunnerside and Burnside Cottage, a small guest house directly across from The Kings Head. That previous stay was the start of our love affair with the Yorkshire Dales. This pub is fairly unique; it closed down around 2015, but the community was so lost without it, they founded a non-profit group, raised the necessary funds and purchased the pub. They cleaned it up, ran it themselves for a few months, and then secured a tenant to run the operation. There is a note in their menu telling patrons that occasionally shares of the community organization come up for sale and urging anyone interested to purchase a share if they become available.
We arrived just at opening time of 4:30, and ordered a pint of ale and a pint of cider. Dinner service begins at 5:30 and we then ordered: Deb a steak pie with chips, and Mark a sausage with mashed potatoes. Both were served with a separate dish of steaming hot vegetables. The food was delicious, and, as this was Friday night, the pub was beginning to fill up with villagers and travelers enjoying a beer and a chat. We took our leave and then proceeded back up over the moors in the pitch black night towards Askrigg and our home base.
Arriving safely, we finished our open bottle of wine and began our preparations for the next day’s travel, We were mostly packed and into bed by 10:00.
Saturday morning we had a cup of coffee, started the dishwasher for the cleaning crew and placed our baggage back in the Nissan for a long day’s travel. We were out of Brook Cottage at 9:02 AM and on the road. We drove back through Leyburn and stopped at the Posthorn for breakfast, an egg, bacon, sausage with toast and a nice cup of coffee. Finishing up, we bid adieu to the Yorkshire Dales for this trip, and pointed the car towards our next destination. Our first taste of how bad the traffic was going be was in Thirsk. For those of you are are ‘All Creatures” fans, both of the shows and the book, this is the real hometown of “All Creatures.” The Clock in the Market Square was covered in poppies, the symbol of remembrance.We arrived at our hotel,The Black Boy, at 6:30 PM, exhausted but glad to see some areas of England we had not visited before. The unfortunate name of the hotel honors a famous British racing horse, and the pub in the hotel is festooned with a saddle, some bridles, and other paraphernalia strewn about. We moved our overnight bags into our room, opened our remaining bottle of wine, and had a cocktail before heading down to the restaurant for our 7:30 reservation. Deb enjoyed a nicely cooked halibut with chips while Mark had a nice piece of salmon on a bed of lemon tanged rice.
After dinner we trundled up the steps to collapse in our bed for our last night in England. Sunday morning, we loaded up and drove to Heathrow Airport, only missing the car rental drop off exit once! We turned in the car at Enterprise without any further delays and, after driving over 750 miles, we gladly took their shuttle into the terminal. This day, Sunday, in England is Rememberance Day, akin to our Veteran’s Day, and at 11:00 AM, throughout the country, bugles sound and everyone stops what they are doing and stands in place for three minutes of silence. Some other unknowing tourists, especially the ones who do not speak English, moved about, not realizing the solemnity of the moment. This was a silence that would never be heard in the USA for anything that far back in history. It was inspiring and took both of us by surprise. When we first came in, not realizing what was about to happen, we asked an agent a question and were hushed with a stern look. After the silence was over, we were helped by the same agent who was so friendly and gracious.
The nine hour flight was uneventful, the food marginally better than the flight over, and we landed at Chicago O’Hare right on schedule. We collected our bags, waltzed them through Immigration and Customs and then boarded the inter-terminal train to Terminal 2 and our last flight of the day. Again through security where chaos reigned. Deb was sent through the scanner twice, the second time shoeless because the security person didn’t hear her state that she had a replacement knee, thereby setting off the alarm. Mark was warned that he could not have a cloth handkerchief in his back pocket as it showed up on the “moose ears” scanner and he should know better. All in all not a warm welcome.
We made our way to C concourse and soon boarded our final leg towards home. Incidentally, although Mark was offered assistance five times in Heathrow by helpful employees, not a single offer was made in Chicago. He was actually questioned about having collapsed his walking stick to slide it along the scanner belt in security. A sour coda to a great trip. Abigail was waiting at Eppley to ferry us home, help us with our luggage up the home steps and leave us to reunite with Poppy the cat. We had, at this point, been awake and traveling nearly 22 hours, and we fell into a deep sleep (stupor.)
As we look back on the trip, it was, except for the last day, a wonderful time to see friends, enjoy their hospitality, and to visit some of our most favorite landscape. We are also glad to be home and, even though the future of the political landscape may be daunting and scary, it is still home.