Sunday morning we awoke in our snug little cottage with a whole week of adventures ahead of us. A late brunch; Mark has to prepare his traditional English breakfast, although without the small fried tomato nor any baked beans. (We forgot those at the grocery run yesterday.) Fried egg, back bacon, sausage (banger) and toast & rhubarb strawberry jam accompanied by copious amounts of coffee. Sunday, there was little traffic about as we traveled again to Leyburn to pick up some additional supplies. Deb purchased a small ceramic pot from her favorite hardware/notions store and we laid in some more provisions from the Co-op store. The weather was drizzly rain and very cool, also a bit breezy; we are beginning to think we may have not packed enough warm wear.
Returning to the cottage, we dined on some chips, crackers and cheese and watched the History Channel for an hour before crawling back up the steps and into our bed. Not a very exciting day, but we were glad to refresh our memories of the glorious Yorkshire Dales moors and byroads.
Monday morning, we again were up and breakfasted before heading out for a bit of some exploring. There seems to be the same orange cone season around the Dales as we encounter at home. Our Google Maps were not very helpful as to roadwork, but we found our way around via the various diversions, and finally arrived at Tan Hill Pub, Britain’s highest altitude pub. This visit has become a tradition with us, we enjoyed a late lunch of cheese, fruit, an ale, and a glass of wine. Our original route was thwarted by more road diversions, so we found an alternative and made our way back to our home based in Reeth.
Reeth, in North Yorkshire, is in the civil parish of Reeth, Fremington and Healaugh. It is the principal settlement of upper Swaledale, the valley formed by the river Swale. The village dates back to the Saxon era and by the time of the Norman Conquest in 1066, it had grown sufficiently in importance to be listed in The Domesday Book. It later became a center for hand-knitting and the local lead mining industry was controlled from here; it was always a market center for the local farming community.
In May and June of each year, Reeth becomes the hub of the Swaledale Festival, a two-week celebration of music and guided walks. It is a center for hiking and bicyclists as it is along the Penine Way, a cross country hiking trail. There are, surprisingly, three public houses (The Kings arms, The Buck Hotel, and the Black Bull Hotel) plus some fine dining in the Burgoyne Hotel. All are within 3 minutes walking distance and most feature pretty authentic pub food. We hope to dine in all four on this trip.
Following our return from Tan Hill, we rested for a bit and then walked across the village green to The Buck for some pub food. It was a bit crowded as there was a football game on the television, (Man City vs. Chelsea, Chelsea won 3-0.) Deb ordered a roast beef with mashed potatoes and a Yorkshire pudding. Mark opted for the burger and fries. Both meals were huge servings but we worked at it and made a pretty good showing!
Following our dinner, we walked back across the green for some exciting TV time in the cottage, ending our first weekday in the Yorkshire Dales.
Tuesday morning we got an early start with just a piece of toast and a split banana. We mounted our trusty Mercedes and headed northwest toward the coast and the destination of the village of Seahouses in Northumberland. We are going here because of a chance conversation with a Dutch woman (now living in Malaga) at the car rental location in Leeds. She was a lone traveller returning her car and she raved about Northumberland and seeing the puffins up close. Since the route was straightforward, most of it on the divided motorway, we decided this was a must-see and we had not been to that part of Northumberland. We passed through Newcastle and eventually reached Seahouses. We had pre-booked a boat trip out to the uninhabited Farne Islands to view seals, puffins and other birds. Seahouses is also where most of the equipment and boats for sea rescues in the Northeast are located. They have a museum with some fascinating history and the many rescue successes and failures over the past 150 years.
The Farne Islands are first recorded in 651 AD then they became home to Saint Aidan, followed by Saint Cuthbert. Among other acts, Cuthbert introduced special laws in 676 protecting eider ducks and other sea birds nesting on these islands. These are thought to be the earliest bird-protection laws anywhere in the world. There is no permanent population on the islands, although as they are now property of the National Trust, trust rangers do live there part time to care for the wildlife. Over the centuries, there have been many lighthouses on the islands. There are currently two, although they are automatic and no longer require lighthouse keepers.
While we enjoyed the day, the boat cruise was less than stellar as it was hard to see out the windows and the outside seats were all taken up by families with young children and dogs (not sure as to why the dogs wee along - perhaps they were training to be bird-dogs!) Also we could not understand one word of the commentary because of a raspy loudspeaker. We’ve come to find out (from a lovely woman in Reeth whom you will meet later) that if we had gone north of Seahouses (considered a tourist trap) we would have seen incredible coastline with castles and really quaint villages. Maybe next time!
Returning to Reeth, we were back in time for our dinner reservation at The Black Bull Hotel Restaurant. We dined on a beef and ale pie and a spicy tagliatelle. Both meals were very tasty. We retired to our cottage for some more TV on the History Channel. We are learning a lot about ancient Britain and its history.
















