Wednesday, April 14, 2026 Reeth and Hawes

Wednesday morning we arose with no specific plans in mind. We again had our bangers, bacon, egg, toast and coffee to begin our day. the weather was cool, breezy and rainy. As we ate breakfast rather late, we decided we could do without a lunch as we had dinner reservations at another local pub for 6:00. We showered, Deb in warm water, Mark starting in warm water, which turned to ice halfway through the process!

The facilities in Dinmore Cottage are very nice, but the hot water system is an Immersion system, similar to a coil you plug in to drop into a cup of tea. The heater takes time to heat the water up. It is on a timer and so, if your heater is scheduled for evening bath time and you want a morning shower, one needs to make some adjustments to the timer or flip switchs to turn the hot water on and wait for it to warm up again. Since the cottage is not in use everyday, all day, but a holiday rental, this plan makes sense. All power in the cottage is electric, from the space heaters to the kitchen appliances. 

For an American family used to continuously available hot water from a gas fired heater, this is a “novelty” to which we must learn to adapt. Such a hardship - but the price of learning how the rest of the world works. There is also a ceiling heater in the bathroom that ties into the light fixture. It is operated by a pull string switch. Great concept, until someone tugs too hard on the string to turn it back off and breaks the string! Again, we will learn.

After resting a bit after breakfast, reading the NYT and the Omaha World Herald for the meager obituary listings, we are ready to attack the day. Today we decide to do a walk-about of the village of Reeth. First stop is the Scenicview Gallery, to check on publication of the 2027 calendar. We have, each year since our first trip, had one of their gorgeous calendars on or kitchen wall. The photography is stunning; all scenes of the Yorkshire Dales area, mostly up and down the Swaledale area. For the 2026 calendar, which wasn’t available when we were last here, we had tried to order one on-line, which was entirely possible, except they were unable to mail to the USA due to the new tariff rules. Our solution was to order and pay on-line with the shop mailing to our friends in Ireland, who in turn mailed it to us at home. 

We walked into the shop, and there was the 2027 calendar, printed and ready for purchase. The owner remembered our troubles from last year’s purchase attempt! He happily sold us next year’s edition which we will tuck into our luggage and hope we don’t misplace at home before January 1, 2027!

Next stop was around the corner to visit some of the craft shops. We stopped at The Nutmeg embroidery shop and Deb procured a couple of very cute embroidery crafts that she thinks she can do at home while watching TV during her retirement. Next door was what we thought was an art gallery, but was actually an artist’s studio and she was sitting there with the door open. We stepped in and then had a wonderful 45 minute visit with Jane Ellis, local artist. We were very taken by some of her work; unfortunately, whatever she had available was framed and too large for our luggage. We were however able to secure a few of her line drawings for cards which we tucked away.  It was Jane who told us how much we had missed by not heading up the Northumberland coast from Seahouses to visit the small villages and castles.  Deb is still trying to figure out how to get one of her large drawings home!

Next a stroll along the green to another craft shop, the Fleece. Mark chose to spend this time sitting on a nearby bench on the green, admiring the beauty (not dozing as there was a rather stiff breeze, but happily ensconced in his Abigail knit hat and windbreaker). Deb spent some time in the shop visiting with the staff and made some small purchases. The shop was actually an artist’s co-op set-up and had some really interesting one-of-a-kind knickknacks, exactly what we don’t need!  Next we crossed the green to the Post Office/ Grocery Shop for some provisions, more eggs, a bottle of Moreland Gin (brewed here in the Swaledale) and a bottle of shampoo. Another lovely visit with the proprietress, and then back up the green to Dinmore Cottage. By then it was cocktail hour and time to sit with our glass of wine prior to ambling back across the village green to our 6:00 reservation at the King’s Arms Hotel.

Built in 1734 by a wealthy local lead mine owner as a private home, The King’s Arms Hotel is one of Reeth’s most iconic buildings. Affectionately known to locals as The Middle House due to its central position among the trio of historic Buiildings facing the village green, it has long been at the heart of village life. The King’s Arms is a warm and welcoming inn, retaining many of its original 18th century features. Exposed oak beams and a magnificent large open fire — the jewel in its crown. Period sash windows, stone fireplaces and historic staircase make this hotel a living piece of Swaldale heritage.

The current establishment is under new ownership and menu. At dinner Deb chose duck breast while Mark picked lamb loin. Both were accompanied by fresh vegetables, asparagus, roast carrots and ramps, A very enjoyable meal. Mark topped it off with a wee dram of Laphroig and an ice cube. We returned to our cozy cottage, lit the fireplace and enjoyed our quiet evening, retiring around 10:00.

Thursday Morning, we finished our breakfast and routed ourselves across the moor towards Askrigg, the village we had stayed in on our last visit. We then turned  west towards Hawes as we needed to gas up the vehicle. We parked up and walked the market street of Hawes. We window shopped, stopped in a small Jewelry stall where Deb picked up a pair of amethyst earrings. She had lost one of her current set some time ago, and this simple pair was a great and relatively inexpensive replacement.

We stopped at a small clothing shop where, two years ago, Mark had purchased his “cow suspenders,” known as braces to the locals. Deb spotted a really cool credit card case and after much weighing of color and texture, a sky blue version was calmly tucked away for her future use. We enjoy Hawes greatly as it is the setting for some of our favorite Yorkshire Dales mysteries by author David Gatward. The hero is a former big-city detective who finds himself as the chief of detectives for the Yorkshire Dales area, headquartered in Hawes; Harry Grimm by name.

The town businesses and the surrounding area are intergral to the novels and the places and shops are like characters in their world. A favorite eatery for the Detective Grimm: the Penny Garth Cafe. We passed by and could not resist the temptation to stop in. We sat to enjoy a mug of tea, a coffee, two bowls of absolutely scrumptious mushroom soup, and split an area specialty “Eccles cake,” a pastry with a fig raisin filling and perfectly beautiful crisp, flaky crust.

We walked back to the local Sparta grocery store and picked up a fresh supply of fireplace logs and returned to our vehicle in the parking lot.

Leaving Hawes we next motored towards another favorite stop, Aysgarth Falls and its National Park Center. The aforementioned “orange cone” season caused us a lengthy detour, following multiple “road diversion” signs, but we finally pulled in, parked, used the public facilities, and then stopped into the cafe for the real prize, a chocolate-vanilla swirl gelato cone, one of Deb’s favorite treats, and something we cannot travel to the Dales without obtaining at least once.

Returning to the Dinmore Cottage, we built a fire with our newly acquired firewood supply, broke out two of the airplane sized vodka “shooters” that Deb had brought along and constructed our first Dirty Martini in the Yorkshire Dales. Unable to locate vermouth at the liquor store we had settled for a very dry small bottle of white wine. We also lacked a standard shot glass, so the head bartender had to fall back on past skills of eyeballing the measurements. The results was acceptable. We broke out some cheese and crackers and dined in. TV was watched and we were under the duvet before 10:00.

Friday morning we cooked our last full breakfast, leaving enough sausage and eggs for the evening meal and then struck out towards the northern portion of the National Park for a bit more driving. We ran across an offshoot road towards the village of Crackpot and decided to explore. Some travelers strike out on an unfamiliar road and become lost but in the Dales you can experience an adventure and great beauty!  We were still sort of lost, however.  We wended along a hillside on a narrow one lane road that, thankfully, provided no oncoming traffic so reverse driving skills were not called into play. We drove up and over the fells, and back down towards Swaledale. 

Next we drove northward across some high and unbelievably beautiful open moors following the river and its falls as they run to the East. This is spring, the ewes were all out with their double sets of newborn lambs. As they ran across the fields, they were actually gambolling. what a sight. New lambs everywhere. We know that the price of wool is to the point of making it almost useless; we only have found lamb meat on one restaurant menu, so we are left wondering what happens with all the sheep. Something to investigate. The sky above these peaks is ever changing, from blue to cloud streaked, to totally cloudy. At one point our windshield wipers were beating double time, the next moment we were lowering the shades on the bright sun. Astonishing beauty was everywhere. 

Back at the cottage, we began our packing process and then had a last martini while Mark prepared a dinner from our remaining larder.  Sausages sliced into rounds and sautéed, then added into the scrambled eggs, accompanied by some red wine and double thick toast. It may not sound like much but it was delicious. We burned the last of our logs, tidied up the kitchen and tucked in for our last night in The Yorkshire Dales.

Sunday, April 12, 2026 - England

Sunday morning we awoke in our snug little cottage with a whole week of adventures ahead of us. A late brunch; Mark has to prepare his traditional English breakfast, although without the small fried tomato nor any baked beans. (We forgot those at the grocery run yesterday.) Fried egg, back bacon, sausage (banger) and toast & rhubarb strawberry jam accompanied by copious amounts of coffee. Sunday, there was little traffic about as we traveled again to Leyburn to pick up some additional supplies. Deb purchased a small ceramic pot from her favorite hardware/notions store and we laid in some more provisions from the Co-op store. The weather was drizzly rain and very cool, also a bit breezy; we are beginning to think we may have not packed enough warm wear. 

Returning to the cottage, we dined on some chips, crackers and cheese and watched the History Channel for an hour before crawling back up the steps and into our bed. Not a very exciting day, but we were glad to refresh our memories of the glorious Yorkshire Dales moors and byroads.

Monday morning, we again were up and breakfasted before heading out for a bit of some exploring. There seems to be the same orange cone season around the Dales as we encounter at home. Our Google Maps were not very helpful as to roadwork, but we found our way around via the various diversions, and finally arrived at Tan Hill Pub, Britain’s highest altitude pub. This visit has become a tradition with us, we enjoyed a late lunch of cheese, fruit, an ale, and a glass of wine. Our original route was thwarted by more road diversions, so we found an alternative and made our way back to our home based in Reeth. 

Reeth, in North Yorkshire, is in the civil parish of Reeth, Fremington and Healaugh. It is the principal settlement of upper Swaledale, the valley formed by the river Swale. The village dates back to the Saxon era and by the time of the Norman Conquest in 1066, it had grown sufficiently in importance to be  listed in The Domesday Book. It later became a center for hand-knitting and the local lead mining industry was controlled from here; it was always a market center for the local farming community.

In May and June of each year, Reeth becomes the hub of the Swaledale Festival, a two-week celebration of music and guided walks. It is a center for hiking and bicyclists as it is along the Penine Way, a cross country hiking trail. There are, surprisingly, three public houses (The Kings arms, The Buck Hotel, and the Black Bull Hotel) plus some fine dining in the Burgoyne Hotel. All are within 3 minutes walking distance and most feature pretty authentic pub food.  We hope to dine in all four on this trip.

Following our return from Tan Hill, we rested for a bit and then walked across the village green to The Buck for some pub food. It was a bit crowded as there was a football game on the television, (Man City vs. Chelsea, Chelsea won 3-0.) Deb ordered a roast beef with mashed potatoes and a Yorkshire pudding. Mark opted for the burger and fries. Both meals were huge servings but we worked at it and made a pretty good showing!

After our dinner, we walked back across the green for some exciting TV time in the cottage, ending our first weekday in the Yorkshire Dales.

Tuesday morning we got an early start with just a piece of toast and a split banana. We mounted our trusty Mercedes and headed northwest toward the coast and the destination of the village of Seahouses in Northumberland. We are going here because of a chance conversation with a Dutch woman (now living in Malaga) at the car rental location in Leeds.  She was a lone traveller returning her car and she raved about Northumberland and seeing the puffins up close. Since the route was straightforward, most of it on the divided motorway, we decided this was a must-see and we had not been to that part of Northumberland.  We passed through Newcastle and eventually reached Seahouses. We had pre-booked a boat trip out to the uninhabited Farne Islands to view seals, puffins and other birds. Seahouses is also where most of the equipment and boats for sea rescues in the Northeast are located.  They have a museum with some fascinating history and the many rescue successes and failures over the past 150 years.

The Farne Islands are first recorded in 651 AD then they became home to Saint Aidan, followed by Saint Cuthbert. Among other acts, Cuthbert introduced special laws in 676 protecting eider ducks and other sea birds nesting on these islands. These are thought to be the earliest bird-protection laws anywhere in the world. There is no permanent population on the islands, although as they are now property of the National Trust, trust rangers do live there part time to care for the wildlife. Over the centuries, there have been many lighthouses on the islands. There are currently two, although they are automatic and no longer require lighthouse keepers.

While we enjoyed the day, the boat cruise was less than stellar as it was hard to see out the windows and the outside seats were all taken up by families with young children and dogs (not sure as to why the dogs wee along - perhaps they were training to be bird-dogs!)  Also we could not understand one word of the commentary because of a raspy loudspeaker.  We’ve come to find out (from a lovely woman in Reeth whom you will meet later) that if we had gone north of Seahouses (considered a tourist trap) we would have seen incredible coastline with castles and really quaint villages.  Maybe next time!

Returning to Reeth, we were back in time for our dinner reservation at The Black Bull Hotel Restaurant. We dined on a beef and ale pie and a spicy tagliatelle. Both meals were very tasty. We retired to our cottage for some more TV on the History Channel. We are learning a lot about ancient Britain and its history.

Thursday, April 9, 2026. Ireland and England

Thursday morning was a lazy time for the old folks, but a busy time for the youngsters. Garth headed into work today in Donegal at Abbot Laboratories. Zoe loaded the kids in the car for a very busy day. First stop was at the Fun Zone Place where the kids got to run around with their buddies, burning off excess energy while Zoe enjoyed a coffee and visited with some mothers. Then Esme headed off to a buddy’s home for a play day while Zoe returned home to pick up the Nebraskans. While Zoe took Arthur for a scheduled visit to the audiologist for an exam and hearing test, the adults, accompanied by our tour guide 9 year old Iris, were dropped at The Model, a former school building turned into an art gallery. We viewed art works on display and enjoyed a coffee, a slice of banana nut bread and huge chocolate chip cookie.

Leaving the museum, Iris led us on a “curated” walk through downtown Sligo ending at her favorite place, Fabio’s Ice Cream & Gelato Shop. While waiting for Zoe to arrive for the meet up, Iris and Deb partook of the products on offer (Deb and her love of the frozen desserts!) When Zoe and Arthur arrived, they purchased a pair of small cones as well as a take-way portion for the absent Dad and Esme. We walked back to the parking lot for the car, pick up of Esme and drove home.

We had earlier engaged the services of a local girl, Holly, as a babysitter for Thursday evening, and the adults drove back into Sligo for a restaurant meal. Zoë & Garth had selected an upscale place, Otto’s and we enjoyed sit down service, cocktails, some nice starters and gourmet pizza. One dessert was ordered and shared, together with an excellent bottle of wine as recommended by our waitress. Alas, after the cocktails and the pleasant conversation, no one remembered to write down the name of the wine (it was a wonderful red!)

Following dinner, we walked a few blocks to a famous pub, Connelly’s, for a nightcap. The place was packed and every TV was tuned to the playing of the Master’s Golf tournament where Rory McIlroy was in a commanding lead. Garth was the Designated Driver of the evening, so Mark, alone, was forced to try what is reputed to be the world’s finest tasting Guiness on offer, while Zoe selected a Jameson and ginger ale and Deb stuck with her red wine. We had a wonderful (if shouted) conversation and finally arrived home at 11:00. Deb had prepaid the baby sitter, so Garth drove her home while the rest of the troupe headed for beds.

Friday morning, our final full day wth the Highland family. We spent the morning with coffee, talk and wrangling children. After a quick lunch, we loaded into two vehicles for driving into Sligo for some errands. The day before, Mark had been tasked with measuring all the kitchen cabinet door fronts. They are currently a bright glossy red hard vinyl and the plan is to get new doors. Our first stop is the cabinet door shop store (a real place called Silver’s.) While Deb took charge of corralling the children and assuring that nothing was damaged by them as they roamed around the display floor, the other three adults discussed various options with the owner. While no final decision was made, options were discussed and the measurements were left for calculation of an estimate. 

Next, Mark and Garth departed on their own, while the other five headed to a store for some grocery shopping. All returned home and groceries were stowed and, as the afternoon was depleted, it was time for children to relax in front of the idiot box (television) while Zoe prepared dinner and the other adults enjoyed an appropriate beverage. We dined on a wonderful bolognese sauce over fettuccine noodles, plus some broccoli as a green. Dessert was a homemade cherry-apple strudele. After dinner, Mark and Deb took some time to pack their luggage for the coming early departure, and the children watched a promised movie while the adults visited (some dozing,) The children went down amidst much crying at our impending departure, tears and kisses were exchanged and they were tucked into their respective places.

Saturday morning we were awake by 4:30 for our early departure. Amazingly, Iris popped out of bed and was standing in the hall way for a final hug and kiss. Deb went into the bedroom for a quick hug with Esme and then Zoe appeared in her robe for a quick send off. She gave us a travel mug of coffee, some fruit for fuel and a last kiss goodbye. 

During the week, a protest had erupted around Ireland, centered on the cost of fuel (occasioned by the Israel/ U.S. war on Iran.) The resulting fuel cost increases were causing major hardship for businesses, trucking, delivery of products and enormous increases in cost of agriculture. The protesters were out clogging the roadways; tractors and semi-trailers were staging a slowdown on all major highways, especially around Dublin. Their aim was to get the Irish government to reduce or rescind the heavy taxation levied on fuel in order to ease the burden. The impact to us was  potential delays in  our three hour trip back to Dublin Airport and a missed flight  departure. 

We were on the road by 5:00 with Garth as our chauffeur. Although this was early and it was a Saturday, we weren’t sure of the impact on the roads. The traffic was light, and as we neared the airport, Garth took us off the freeway and onto some back roads to skirt any potential trouble spots. We arrived at the airport in good time, around 8:15 and said our goodbyes to Garth; immediately inside the terminal, Deb realized that her phone was missing from her coat pocket - a quick call to Garth and he swung back around to the departure area for Deb to retrieve her instrument, crisis averted.

Our flight to Leeds-Bradford airport in the U.K. was on time and we arrived in England by 11:30, ready for the Yorkshire portion of our spring holiday.  Our bags showed up (unlike in 2023) and we are off to find our low cost car rental! We had called to request an automatic car and said we would pay the difference.  Unfortunately, the only automatics they had were a LARGE SUV or a Mercedes sedan.  They said both would be the same upgrade price and insurance, which was much more than already paid.  So much for saving money.  So here we are driving around Middle Earth in a black Mercedes.  Mark is driving like a pro and I never worry.  We take our time, admiring the scenery and head to Leyburn for groceries and some soup & scones at The Post Horn, our favorite watering (and de-watering place!).  The weather is very, very cold and rainy and Deb does not feel dressed for the heavy winds and sleety rain.  Once we have picked up groceries for breakfast and some wine for tonight at Campbells, we head the 7 miles to Reeth and our home for the next 7 nights, Dinmore Cottage.  It is small and charming with all the mod-coms and a fireplace that works, which we start immediately.  By 7pm, we are snug in front of a TV that we can’t figure out how to work too well BUT with a glass of wine and some snacks.  To bed by 10pm and we slept like (very big) babies.

Ireland and England 2026, April 6

We are once again headed for Europe. We spent the past weekend overworking ourselves, hosting Abigail, Darcy and Bud (with attendant canine grandchildren,) for pancakes Sunday morning and then the rest of the afternoon in the gardens trying to clean up the areas prior to our departure. Monday morning, finished packing, Mark made the 2026 initial lawn mowing foray, and Deb was out in her pajamas cleaning up a pile of weeds and  doing some pruning. Darcy arrived at 1:30 to transport us to Eppley Airfield for our flight.

We arrived in Chicago a bit ahead of schedule and then spent some time at the food court eating an overpriced cheese pizza with glasses of red wine ($57.00 !!) Departure for the direct flight to Dublin was on time and we were boarding by 8:25 and off the tarmac by 9:30, eastward bound. An uneventful flight on an almost full plane but we were lucky to have a pair of aisle seats with an empty seat between us. Deb dozed a bit, Mark logged a fitful 26 minute nap and we landed slightly ahead of schedule at Dublin. Rapidly clearing customs & immigration, we waited over 45 minutes for the luggage to arrive. No mishaps and all three checked pieces made it through.

Zoe was there to greet us, and after a quick coffee, we loaded into her car for the three hour drive to Sligo, our destination for this trip. Her children are on spring break which is the timing for this trip. Garth took a few days off as well and all were happy to see us when we arrived around 2:00. We visited for a bit and had a quick cup of homemade mushroom soup before retiring to our guest bedroom for a bit of a nap in an effort to get a jump on the inevitable jet lag. 

Garth had been cooking dinner all day and we, after a glass of wine, we sat down to a delicious meal of chicken curry with veg.  Yummy!  Deb broke out some gifts for the children and after they were down for the night, we sat up and talked until the old folks were ready to pass out from their strenuous day of travel. Sleep was welcome and there was no lingering awake this night.

Wednesday morning broke clear and sunny, a relative rarity for the northwest coast of the emerald isle. Mark was up early, and the kids, who had been up and waiting, were quick to commandeer him into a game of Monopoly, the Omaha version, we had brought with us as a gift. Mark was the banker, and the kids were quickly into the game. Predictably, some squabbles broke out and attention lagged. Only one child made it around the board before the game was brought to a halt. 4 year old Arthur was struggling with the concept of “go to Jail” and didn’t understand that he lost a turn. Such is life kid!

While the children went outside to enjoy the day, playing in the yard and squabbling a bit, the adults enjoyed their coffee and plotted the day.  After a light lunch (with homemade ice cream sandwiches!!), Garth and eldest daughter Iris elected to remain home and the other five of us were off for a bit of sightseeing.

We drove northward a bit through the village of Grange, past the summer home, Classiebawn Castle, of the famous Lord Mountbatten. It was in the harbor of Mullaghmore that Mountbatten kept the boat which was blown up and he was killed, all the handiwork of the Provisional IRA, in 1979. Mountbatten was a maternal uncle of the Prince Phillip and a second cousin once removed of Queen Elisabeth II. He was a favorite uncle of the then Prince Charles. 

We drove on past and down to the beaches and cliffs of Mullaghmore Head. Across the Donegal Bay, were the scenic Slieve Mountains.

We drove into the village of Mullaghmore, a favorite summer resort town with a number of vacation homes. Lightly populated in this off-season time, it was very picturesque. There were walkers all along the roads; we were able to get some truly magnificent pictures of the scenery.

After a quick stop for ice cream for the kids (and Deb) we returned home, where Garth had prepared a wonderful roast chicken with vegetables together with some roasted potatoes. We enjoyed some wine, the kids opened another round of presents, this time books, and then they were off to bed following their bedtime stories from the new books. We again enjoyed a lovely evening of conversation and catch up, then into bed by 11:00 and fast asleep. We are becoming rested after a busy two days.