North Atlantic, Saturday, May 7, 2016

Up at 5:00 for this final day on m/v Magellan. As we had packed the night before, all we had to do was shower and throw our traveling paraphernalia into our carry-on luggage.  We were at the breakfast bar at 6:00 for coffee and some yogurt and rolls.  I decided against my full English breakfast today and opted to stick with minimum coffee.  A long day of travel with few restroom breaks ahead.  Likewise, Deb abstained from her morning diuretic medication.

At 6:45 we were the second couple in line for disembarkation.  You would think this was a German run vessel, as they did not open the gate until the stroke of 7:00.  We were off the ship and into the taxi by 7:06 for the 5 minute ride to the train station.  As we had missed our reserved seats on the 6:32 train, we had to purchase fresh tickets on the 7:38.  This train was a whistle stop, every small town got it's 60 second chance at fame.  We pulled in to the Haymarket stop at 9:00 and schlepped our bags out and across the station to the Airport Tram.  There is a bit of poor planning here, as while on the train, we passed the Edinburgh Airport some two stops back, but there is no train station at the Airport - curious.

The tram ride was 35 minutes out to the airport, but once there, we were able to check our bags all the way to Omaha, even though we were overnighting in Dublin.  Very convenient, although we will see how it works.  A bite to eat in the airport, and then off to Dublin - farewell Scotland or as the sign at the airport said "haste ye back."

We arrive in Dublin to fair temperatures ( 13 C) and slight rain, which clears off by the time we reach our hotel (Ashling Hotel.) Although this hotel is not in city Centre, it is only about 15 minutes walk and a very serviceable property.

We find our room and then out for a walkabout in Dublin.  We get to city Centre and act like tourists, rubbernecking up and down the streets.  We finally stop at The Mercantile on Dame street for an afternoon Guinness and wine.  We then start searching for a restaurant for dinner.  Up and down we go, an international cornucopia of restaurants; we decide that the Mercantile, from which we just departed was our best bet, so we trudge back.  I ordered a caesar's salad and Shepherd's Pie, Deb some mussels and the Shepherd's Pie.  Evidently I missed a bet in the mussels; Deb went orgasmic over them and would not share. She was truly impressed.  The Shepherd's pie was the best I have ever tasted.  As usual, the Guinness from a tap in Dublin is an entirely different and better taste than the export we have at home.  Excellent evening.

Last, we stroll down to the Temple Bar area to watch the kids beginning their Saturday night revelry and then catch a taxi back to the Hotel.  We stop for a nightcap of tea and wine in the hotel bar and then are back in our room and ready to hit the sack for our travel day tomorrow by 8:45 pm.  Thus ends our penultimate day of vacation.  We begin thinking about all we have to do upon our return home, but realize worrying never gets it done.  As Deb's bracelet says "EWOP," everything works out perfectly.

Thanks to all of you who have slogged through these abbreviated tales of our travels.  I apologize for all the typos - I seriously do read through this at least twice before I press send, so any errors are truly mine.  Dell, also, thanks for your email on your trip to the caverns - it hit the spot on a Sunday morning.  See all of you when we get back, at least those of you in Omaha, and the others when we next cross your threshold on some new adventure.

North Atlantic, Friday, May 6, 2016

Up at 6:00, showered and up to our last breakfast by 8:00.  A busy day on board as the passengers who originally embarked at Newcastle are departing today, replaced by a fresh set of citizens anxious to taste the cultural Mecca that is the m/v Magellan.

Our final excursion today is to Durham Cathedral and Castle after a quick drive through of Newcastle Upon Tyne.  We take a quick tour of Newcastle, and outside of town pass the immense "Angel of the North" sculpture, and then on to Durham. The town of Durham is about 35 minutes outside of Newcastle, and the cathedral was started in 1093, completed in 1133.

The tomb of St. Cuthbert, the great Saint of the north, who died in 687, is behind the high alter of the cathedral. Likewise the tomb of the Venerable Bede, who died in 735 is at another end of the cathedral.  The building is huge, 470 feet overall, and the height of the interior central nave rises to 73 feet.  Truly a magnificent structure that our 1 1/2 hour tour can barely touch.  We walk to tour the area of Durham old central market for an hour before boarding our coach for the trip back to port, arriving around 2:00 PM.

The entire North Umbria territory is very scenic, and we think it may deserve a separate week of its own in our future.  Time will tell.

Back on ship, we check email for the last time, pack our main bags and prepare for departure.  We are hoping to depart tomorrow at 7:00 AM to catch our train from Dundee back to Edinburgh for our flight to Dublin.  Tomorrow will be a long day.

Our final dinner aboard Magellan is enjoyable, saying farewell to new friends and thanking the staff that have been so welcoming.  On to the final part of our adventure.

North Atlantic, Thursday, May 5, 2016

Up at 6:15, showered and at breakfast before 8:00.  We dock at Kirkwall, the Orkney Islands at 8:30 this morning.  Our excursion coach departs at 9:15, headed north along the Mainland Island (seems common enough to name the main island in each chain as Mainland) to get a view of the Orkney Islands.  Our guide today is an archeologist by training, recently from Portsmouth (8 years on island.) The Orkneys are an archeological goldmine.  Since all the Neolithic civilizations here used stone rather than wood for their structures, much remains in tact.  Carbon dating is harder, as, unless their is some wood or other carbon based material available, estimates of age are broad.  

As we tour the landscape, the same themes are repeated; no trees, eroded hills and stunning sea cliffs eroded by the sea.  We first journey to  the Italian Chapel, built during WW II on the site of a prisoner of war camp by Italian POWs.  En route we pass the Churchill Barriers, which the POWs constructed across small channels to keep German U-Boats out of the harbors following one disastrous German raid that resulted in the loss of a ship and 1,200 men and boys. 

Next on to Yesnaby, and view the towering cliffs and pounding sea.  3,000 miles to the west lies Canada, with nothing in between.

Next, on to the Ring of Brodgar stone circle, a henge estimated to be nearly 5,000 years old.  A henge is a circular ditch surrounded by an embankment.  Often (as at Stonehenge in Wiltshire England,) there are standing stones in the center of the circle.  This one at Bodgren is 100 meters in diameter, the largest in U.K.  It retains 27 standing stones from an estimated 60 original stones, some as tall as 3.5 meters.

Near the same site we stop to tour another henge, the Standing Stones of Stenness.  Each of these sites is integral to its surrounding environment, sited in each specific spot to take advantage of the landscape.  Although the original meaning is lost in time, theories abound as to their use: funeral areas, monuments to the dead, astrological or solar calendars, ceremonial rites?

We return to Kirkwall around 1:15 and re-board our ship in preparation of a sailing at 2:30 towards our next destination - Newcastle Upon Tyne.  A leisurely dinner this evening, followed by an invitation to our table mates' suite to crack their complimentary bottle of champagne.  They are on the top deck, occupying one of the two Royal Suites on the ship.  They have a huge cabin, with sitting and sleeping areas, a walk-in closet, and a full bath with jacuzzi; also a walkout balcony.  We enjoy the champagne and some hors d'oevres  from their refrigerator.  The sunset from the balcony is stunning.

We bid good night, stop at our favorite lounge for a listen to the violin/piano stylings and then retire at 10:00.

North Atlantic, Wednesday, May 4, 2016

We are up and moving by 6:30.  However, the ship is not quite as punctual as its passengers.  We end up over an hour behind schedule in landing at the Shetland Islands, and the excursions are pushed back by at least that much time.  As we are actually tendering from our anchorage point today, everything is a major movement.  

Our excursion to the Eshaness Cliffs finally boards its coach at the dock at 1:15 PM. We motor north across the Mainland Island enjoying the scenery.  This is very reminiscent of Iceland as to rolling terrain.  Again, no trees in site but acres and acres of peat; we see where it is cut and stacked for drying all over the landscape.  We cross the Mavis Grind, which is a narrow isthmus (actually less than 100 yards across, which separates the Atlantic Ocean from the North Sea. One could hurl a stone from one ocean to another.  

We motor to a small museum which used to be a Scottish Laird's (lord's) home in the mid 1700's.  Moving onward, we end at the Eshaness Cliffs; 150 foot high cliffs formed millions of years ago as the sea has gradually eroded the remnant of this large volcano.  According to our guide, the entire Shetland Islands were formed 350 million years ago as a volcano over the equator, and has gradually drifted north along the continental plate.

We head back to the port city of Lerwick, where we arrive at 5:50 PM.  Unfortunately, this town of 7,000 closes up tighter than a drum at 5:00. We have plenty of time to tender back to the ship, money to burn in our pockets, and nowhere to spend it.  As we didn't have a proper lunch and are hungry, there is nothing left to do but head back to the ship and our dinner.

At least our table mates are back with us.  She is recovering from whatever threw her into the infirmary for a couple of days, looking wan but game to soldier on.  We again repair to our lounge and are in the cabin by 10:00.

North Atlantic, Tuesday, May 3, 2016

An entire day "At Sea." We are up and showered by 8:30.  Time for a day of eating, napping, reading and general vacation leisure with nowhere to go.  After breakfast, we pick up our reading material and head up to a lounge for some quality reading time.  The down side to a day at sea is that every passenger is trying to claim a primo spot in a lounge.  The good reading chairs go first, followed by the window seats to stare at the ocean.  The interior seats surrounding tables are next to fill up, and finally the chairs and tables nearest the variety of stage areas where games and contests are played.  The frustrating thing is to look for a comfortable reading chair and find people sleeping in them.  These prime spots are few and far between, and to my knowledge, everyone on board is assigned a bed - go use it!

Just prior to noon, the Captain comes over the speaker systems to give our location off the SW coast of Iceland, headed East Southeast.  Seas are swelling and moderately rough, winds are gale force 7 (25-30 knots per hour) and we are sailing over 4,000 feet of water. 

After lunch, we head to the shops on board as Deb's wristwatch has quit working.  We pay 20% off of a probably overpriced Citizen Eco-Drive with a band that she doesn't care for.  The band is easily changed when we get home and she can pick one she likes from the Internet.  Back down to Reception (front desk) to check on our passports.  As we are not EU citizens, they are holding our passports to present each time we enter another country.  We are concerned that we will need them prior to our departure on Saturday morning; although the ship docks at 2:30 AM, there is a concern that we won't be able to have early disembarkation.  Our train leaves Dundee at 6:30 AM, which is well before normal disembarkation.  As usual, the correct and knowledgeable person is not at the desk so we explain our concern and plight on the promise that someone will contact us.

We then trek back to cabin #7153 to drop some material and relieve ourselves.  Back up to a lounge for the continuing quest for better seating. This afternoon, a rousing game of scategories followed by bingo.

Another formal attire dinner, which means I put on my dress slacks, clean shirt and blue blazer.  I again toyed with purchasing a tie for this last dinner and decided I need not add to my collection for a bunch of people I will never see again.  Deb fashionably tries something in black. Our table mates are again out of action.  We are beginning to worry that something is seriously wrong.

Dinner meal is tenderloin or tagliatelle with salmon, followed by the obligatory march of Baked Alaska in from the kitchen by the wait staff to the sound of music.  At least they weren't flaming as they marched in - flame is a definite no-no on board ship. 

We finished the night with a few minutes above deck to cool down, followed by a cocktail and a time of piano music.  In to bed by 10:00 - a truly strenuous day of sailing behind us.

North Atlantic, Monday, May 2, 2016

Day beaks clear and calm in the port of Rekavjik, Iceland.  We set sail this afternoon, headed for a day at sea and then the Orkney Islands.  We are up and out to breakfast early.  By 9:00 AM, we are off the ship and onto a coach headed to town for a free morning.

First on our list is to locate a coffee shop with free wi-fi. We find, in the heart of old-town, a Cafe Paris, with excellent Illy coffee, a roll and unlimited free wi-fi.  First is to download yesterday's adventure letter to you all.  Second, is to checkout our email at something faster than the snail's pace from the shipboard satellite internet connection £15 for a four-hour session.  Just to upload the daily missive and download my day's email takes up to 45 minutes on board.  My, how dependent we have become on electronics and the speed of the Internet.

Next we had to add some books to my iPad Kindle app as I had read all the "real" books I had brought along and there is a lot of reading time left.

Deb then had to log into the web browser to conduct a little business.  However, the free wifi was paid for by a dependence on Facebook.  I do not have a Facebook account, but luckily Deb does.  Now the problem is to remember her password. 

Deb, trying to remember her password.  She was eventually successful, and so could attend to a final detail of her client's needs.

Next we are off to explore a little of the area on foot.  As we had been here three years ago, a lot was brought back to memory.  We wandered some shops, contemplated some purchases, but in the end decided there was nothing we needed.

Back to the bus and a return to the ship.  

We dropped our electronics and went to the Raffles Bistro for a sandwich out on deck and to watch our dew pasture from Rekavjik. Then down to the main lounge for a showing of "The Lady in the Van" with Maggie Smith.  Very cute.

Back to our room for some napping or reading, as the case may be.  Dinner again at 6:15; our table mates still ill, so we dined as a pair.  It was path night at the restaurant, so balloons, and towards the end of the meal, all waiters, assistants and others disappeared from the restaurant hall, only to reappear carrying a banner and singing a "We are Sailing" ditty as they marched through the dining room.  

We repaired to the lounge for some violin/piano music, a quick stroll on deck and then to our cabin for the night.  A quiet and relaxing evening.

North Atlantic, Saturday, April 30, 2016

This day breaks cloudy, and we are now into the harbor that is Isafjordour.  In Icelandic, the name means Ice Fjord, as it used to freeze over in the early 900 era when it was first discovered by the Vikings.  We have good news and bad news all morning.  Good news, the Captain was able to edge the ship to the dock so we do not have to tender on and off the ship via small boats.

Bad news, the weather is such that a number of shore excursions have to be cancelled. Good news, our excursion to Vigur Island is a go.  Bad news, they add two additional departures to Vigur Island to accommodate those passengers that were cancelled from other excursions. Good news, we can get on the first departure to the island.  Bad news, we walk to the small boat along the dock in sleet and rain, with the wind whipping at us.

Good news, the boat we are taking on the 45 minute trip to the island is enclosed.  Bad news, as we motor out from the harbor to the fjord, the seas kick up and it is a fairly rough ride.  Good news, we reach the island and the sun comes out. 

Vigur Island is a small island in the middle of the fjord.  It is owned and occupied by a couple who raise some sheep and handle a little tourist business.  It is the smallest post office known to exist, only two people.  It is also home to nearly 100,000 puffins nesting this time of year, also Arctic terns and eider duck.  There are no trees, so the puffins dig small little holes in the ground in which to lay their eggs and hatch the young.

In addition to the puffin population, there is a seal colony off the island and they are very curious to watch the humans, especially those with colorful jackets.  They slip into the water from the rocks, and their heads pop up off shore to look at us, then dip back down.

The Island is lovely and we hike around, spotting puffins, and admiring the views back to the mainland.  Then we enter a small meeting hall and are served coffee, tea and homemade cakes.  Very enjoyable.  We also learn about the eider down business, how it is collected and cleaned.  We are shown a handful of compressed eider down, that, when released from the hand, expands into a ball a foot in diameter.  The entire thing weighs less than an ounce.  Amazing.

After a few hours, we are back in our boat to head back to town and the ship.  The sea is a little calmer, or maybe we are getting better at this seafaring stuff!  We return to the ship in the early afternoon, have a quick lunch and then sit in one of the lounges reading and relaxing.  We eventually are able to buy additional Internet time, which is why you probably received two letters from us today.

Dinner this evening was Scandinavian themed, with Norwegian salmon, Swedish meatballs and the like on the menu.  The food was some of the best of the trip.  Early to bed as we depart for Reykjavik for a two day stay.