Denver Friday, January 24, 2020

Denver 2020

Denver Art Museum Trip

The morning arrived sunshine and bright. The high temperature today was 57, and the weather was almost balmy.  We gathered at 8:30 this morning in the restaurant for breakfast of Bagels, Oatmeal, mixed fruit, Wheat Toast, juice and the all important Coffee. Today is the whole purpose of this jaunt, a viewing of the Monet show - A return to Nature, at the Denver Art Museum.  Our timed tickets were for 10:15 entry, so we presented ourselves at the entrance at 10:00 and used the few minutes to reconnoiter the ever present museum shop.  This one was a notch above the many we have visited over the years.

This show was marvellously presented.  Audio devices were distributed and allowed one to enter a room of the show, choose the number and hear some background of the work on display in that area.  It didn’t give you a detailed explanation of each piece but rather an overall view of the time frame and geographical region Monet was exploring, allowing one to wander the room and concentrate on the art.

Although crowded, the room was quiet and the people respectful of one another.  Monet lived to the ripe old age of 86, dying in 1926. During his entire career he was exploring and recording nature as he saw it.  His constant struggle to present the light he saw onto the canvas was readily apparent.

There were a number of his famous Lily Pad paintings on display. We were all agreed that our visit in 2019 to his home and gardens in Giverney was a highlight of our trips and brought these paintings more to life.  We could see what he was trying to do as it matched with our memories of the area, his home and his gardens.

We spent over two hours wandering the displays, revelling in the beauty Claude Monet presented for us.

As it now was lunchtime, we walked a few blocks to the Pints Tavern for a beer and sandwiches.  This British style pub was opened in 1993 and boasted quite a few house brewed or local brewery beers.  They also had the self-proclaimed “largest number of Scotch Whiskys on order.” Based upon the list presented and the number of bottles on display in the bar area, one could easily agree.  Alas, there were no takers of the available water of life on this trip.  Although a couple of the $1,000 per shot whiskys were intriguing, also a number of the more reasonably priced bottles.

Next we wandered into the nearby Denver Public Library Main branch to tour the Red Chair Bookstore, their used book store located on the first floor. We found a number of intriguing titles and enjoyed visiting with the volunteer on duty. Purchases were made. We then headed to the nearby Civic Center Station and hopped on the Free Mall Bus to journey down 16th street and back towards Union Station.  We turned around and headed back a few blocks to the Tattered Cover Bookstore, a huge new and used bookstore that caught our eye. We spent well over an hour wandering the shelves, seeing new and used titles that we had read, wanted to read and were reading.  Eventually purchases were made and we then hopped back on the Mall Bus for the ride/walk back to our hotel. 

We again gathered at the lobby bar for a cocktail.  As it was crowded with no seats available in the room, we wandered out on to the bar terrace and sat next to the unique fire pit to enjoy our drinks and plot our evening.

We picked a Restaurant in the Larimer Square area near University of Colorado Denver campus  - The Euclid Hall.  This old hall dating from 1883, converted to a restaurant, boasted a 2019 James Beard Foundation “Smart Catch Leader” award for the work of its chefs.This is essentially a beer and brat focussed restaurant, but one with amazing food.  First up was an hors d’oevres called Chip and Dip - comprised of a large center dollop of lemon goat cheese, covered by oolong tea smoked rare duck breast, duck confit, house made fresh cut fried potato chips and a sprinkling of dill. It was delicious and we wiped out the small offering in a flurry of oohs and ahs, For mains, there was a Crispy Chicken Sando - a crispy chicken breast on a sesame bun with celery mayo, iceberg lettuce and bbq sauce with pickles, declared scrumptious.  Also a Brat burger, a smoked beef short rib bratwurst, split, on a bun covered with slaw, 10,000 island dressing and Jarlsberg cheese, again deemed like nothing tasted before and one that would be scarfed down again.

The men opted for a “Sausage Party,” a selection of all four sausages available, the aforementioned Beef Short Rib, a Boudin Blanc, a Lamb Merguez,  and a Pork Cheddarwurst, accompanied by an assortment of four mustards, some pretzel bun rolls and a house assortment of pickles. All were tasty and the mustard added to the treat.  For dessert we shared a S’mores pot de creme and a Pecan Bread Pudding.  Coffee topped ended the meal. This was intriguing adventure in eating, nothing like we had ever tried before, and thoroughly enjoyable. We agreed that we could easily recommend this restaurant to any visitor to Denver as a don’t miss stop.

We left the restaurant and walked to Larimer Square to view the lights and walk along looking at the night life. We eventually made our way back to 16th Street, ordered another Lyft and returned to the hotel to retire after a long art, food, and book filled day in lovely 50 degree weather in the middle of January in the mile-high city.  Next time we will probably be stomping through foot deep snow, but for now, the weather was very acceptable.

France, Sunday, April 14, 2019

Fitting that this morning, Palm Sunday, we arise to look out over the square of Rouen Cathedral and see palm sellers lining the courtyard entry to the church, huddling in 32F chill. We pack our bags and head down to a wonderful breakfast, cereal, fruit, toast, yogurt, juice, coffee and the obligatory croissant. All while a grey long haired cat, almost a twin of our Sushi, wanders around the dining room looking for a scratch or rub.

We struggle with the bags to our car park and load up for the days run. Our only stop today before Paris is Giverney, the village of the home of Claude Monet, and the site of his home and gardens. We arrive at 10:30 and secure a parking place. Deb had, the night before, secured online prepaid tickets which allowed us to skip the entry queue and head for the group entrance where, after fumbling with the technology of tickets on a cell phone, we were through the gate.

There are two gardens, the famous lily pond gardens, which are across the road from the main grounds and then the beautiful beds surrounding the home. We start with the lily garden. If you never visit another garden, this is the one you must see - put it on your bucket list. Monet planned and planted this by painting with plants and then he famously painted the plants. The colors are wonderful, and blooming all year long as the early hyacinth, daffodils and tulips give way to the azaleas and rhododendrons, giving way to the roses and summer bloomers. All underplanted with a verdure that provides a base. All this surrounds a pond and stream crisscrossed with bridges and paths.

Next we stroll through the tunnel under the roadway to the house garden. Again painted with plants, but in a more orderly fashion. Row upon row of solid colors of tulips today, which will give way in a few weeks to the next wave of color. We eventually make our way into the house to walk through his gallery, studded with his own paintings and the hallways and other rooms hung with those of his friends, Pissarro, Renoir, Manet. All are reproductions, as otherwise there would be armed guards everywhere, but the illusion is masterful. The background of the yellow walls or the blue walls makes the home itself a work of art. Once arriving at the obligatory gift shop, we end up spending as much time as in the home itself.

We next stop at a nearby restaurant for our afternoon meal; memorable only in that the servings of quiche were nearly two inches thick and as large as a piece of pizza. Only that the flavor would have matched the size. The omelette on offer was also large and as tasteless as a 1/2 inch thick piece of fried cardboard.

Onto the highway and heading to Paris. As we are required to return the vehicle fully fuelled up, we stop on the outskirts and top off with €100.02 ($112.00) of diesel fuel. Sticker Shock!

We fight our way around Charles DeGaulle airport, at least twice until we discover our rental car drop off sight. Unloaded we walk to the nearest taxi stand for the long ride into Paris proper. Even on a Sunday, traffic is heavy, but we finally arrive at our hotel, Les Tournelles, around 6:00. We leave the bags in our rooms, rest for a few minutes and then off to explore the area of the Marais. By 8:30 we are ready to eat and so head back to the hotel and a nearby brasserie for a bite. Soup, crepes and sandwich with some wine and beer. Then to bed for our next days’ exploration of the City of Light.