Boston to Montreal, Sunday, September 1, 2019

It is worth noting that September 1 is an auspicious day to our travellers. It is the birth date of both Deb Duggan’s mother Virginia Kaplan, born 1919, and Ann Covert, born 1922 (although she always claimed 1923.) If not for them, this trip would not be occurring. Thanks and Happy birthday!

Awoke this morning at 6:00 AM for our in-cabin breakfast. Deb and Mark ordered a full breakfast for 6:00 AM delivery as our tour departs at 7:30 this morning. The Steward knocked on the door at 6:10 with our tray, I thank him, close the door and juggle the tray into an increasingly crowded space. First crisis of the day - no coffee on the tray! This is definitely a problem. A quick call to room service and the pot is delivered to save the day. We later find that Abigail’s breakfast included a pot of coffee - which she does not drink! So that’s where it went!

The three of us make our way down to the lower deck to meet our tender boat to be taken into Bar Harbor. Deb & Tim opt for a leisurely morning and we will meet them in town later. The three Covert crew board our van for a two and one-half hour tour of Acadia National Park and Desert Island. First thing we learn is that Bar Harbor is on an Island. Second thing we learn is that natives refer to it as Dessert Island and non-natives refer to is as Desert Island - either pronunciation is acceptable. Third thing we learn is that Acadia National Park is the only national park in which all of the land was donated for the park. It also is the smallest National Park in the system, only 44,000 acres. As our tour guide noted, that is one-half the size of Yellowstone Lake!

To understate - this park is crowded. The busy season is July through August. This is Labor Day weekend; the park is easily accessible for all of New England, less than a day’s drive from the busy metropolitan northeastern cities. That fact however, should not deter anyone who wants to see a unique environment. Situated on the Atlantic coast on a huge pile of granite, this island is an eye-opener. Originally settled over 12,000 years ago by the group of native peoples collectively called the Wabanaki, they sailed to the island in birch-bark canoes, fished, hunted and traded with each other. In 1604, French explorers “discovered” the island. During the next century and a half, the French and the British fought for control of the territory and in 1761 the British established the first European settlement on the island; the settlers fished, farmed and quarried granite.

In the mid 1800’s, Hudson Valley School painters began bringing back paintings of the area, and soon tourism reared its head inspiring wealthy city dwellers to build “cottages” as summer residences, transforming the quiet fishing and farming villages. Beginning in 1801, Harvard University President Charles Elliot, George Dorr and other conservation minded philanthropists began acquiring over 5,000 acres of land that they eventually donated to the federal government. In 1916 President Woodrow Wilson proclaimed the area a national monument, and in 1919 Congress designated it the first eastern national park.

The town of Bar Harbor is now chiefly fueled by tourism. Population year round of approximately 5,000 swells with over 4 million visitors per year to the park and surrounding area. With bitter winters and an average of 5 1/2 feet of snowfall per year, it is a seasonal business, with the successful merchants fleeing to Florida for the winter months.

We finished our tour and met Deb and Tim in town, shopped for some yarn (of course) and then staked out an outside table away from the bulk of the crowd for a lunch of clam chowder and lobster rolls. Wine, beer, and a blueberry infused cocktail were also consumed. A great lunch. The blueberry pie, made from wild picked blueberries was sublime - no sugar added and sweeter than any cultivated blueberry ever grown. The “whoopie” pie sandwich was also out of this world. Unfortunately, as we forged our way downhill and back towards the dock, there were multiple shop stops. The Coverts will now feature the only $50.00, Santa painted- lobster claw ornament in the Midwest this coming December. We found our way back to the tenders, boarded them in fine fashion and sailed back to the Zaandam by 3:00. The ship pulled anchor at 4:00 and we set sail for tomorrow’s destination of Halifax, Nova Scotia.

Abigail spent the balance of the afternoon on the top deck, swaddled in a wool blanket while she knitted, watching the ship depart and talking with people she met who wandered by. Tim went in search of a bridge game, found the assigned meeting room, only to have no one show up to play; he was forced to sit in the library and read a book - such a hardship for him. Deb and Deb each took a power nap in their rooms and I went up on deck to join Abigail and read for a while. We all then retreated to our staterooms to dress for dinner.

We first joined in the senior Coverts’ room for a cocktail and then at 7:00 headed to the dining room for our first formal shipboard dinner. This was billed as a “Gala” dinner evening; many of our fellow passengers were dressed in formal wear, but jeans and tee-shirts wee also in evidence. The evening’s meal included escargot, shrimp cocktails, peppered beef tenderloin, risotto, rack of lamb, sole fillet and other choices. While perfectly edible, there was nothing about the cuisine this night to do more than fill the void - the rolls and bread were commendable, the desserts passable, and the wine a nice Toscana.

Abigail retired after dinner while the four seniors found their way to a small concert of show tunes by a violin/piano duo. Lively music enjoyed while we let the meal settle. Back to our staterooms by 9:45 to prepare for bed. Tonight we lose an hour as the clocks are moved forward to Atlantic time zone. A nice day with good sightseeing., shopping and vacationing.