There is something restful and comforting about a drizzly rainy morning in the Yorkshire Dales. A light rain was falling on Wednesday morning as we awakened and planned our day. We were down to breakfast at our usual 8:30 and found another couple in the breakfast room. We introduced ourselves to Ireen and Chris Hudson, an English couple of about our age. Ireen is a born Dubliner, married to English former schoolteacher Chris. This is their 30th anniversary week and they are on a few weeks vacation to celebrate. They have never been to the Yorkshire Dales and so were motoring around as we have been. Very enjoyable couple.
Another 4-star breakfast and then we spent a few hours in the lounge deciding where to spend the day. A few words about our accommodations: The Low Mill Guest House was originally built around 1740 as a working flour mill on the river Bain. After some years of dereliction, it was restored as a working demonstration flour mill in 1972 by local craftsmen. In 2003, Jane and Neil McNair purchased it while on holiday in the area. Originally from London, the couple, who were experienced in home building and remodeling, decided to convert the structure to a guest house. The facility has 3 guest rooms, a lounge, a dining area, and ample parking. It is situated on the River Bain with views of the waterfalls and is a truly quaint setting.
We headed today back to Hawes for some shopping and walking about. Then we were off to the north for a look at our last year’s cottage in Gunnerside, which started us on this love affair with the Yorkshire Dales. We had originally made a dinner reservation for this evening at the Kings Head Pub in Gunnerside, but after driving home in the absolute dark on these small roads Tuesday evening from Aysgarth, we determined that the much longer drive from Gunnerside back to Bainbridge in the dark was more than we wanted to attempt, we cancelled our reservation at Kings Head. We did stop in Gunnerside to see our old haunt, Burnside Cottage. It appears the property has been sold and remodeling is under way.
Next we swung up the fell above Gunnerside towards Tan Hill and its only business, the Tan Hill Inn. This is the highest situated Pub in Britain at 1,782 feet above sea level. We arrived in the fog around 1:30 and the place was packed - no tables available so we opted for a quick pint at the bar. Mark had a half pint of black Sheep ale, and Deb had a full pint of Old Moot cider. The cider, a sweet, bubbly berry flavored drink was much to her liking. If we can find some similar beverages in Omaha, she may step away from her carbonated red wine as a drink of choice. (Except of course for Dirty Martini Fridays.)
After the obligatory bathroom break, we’d turned the vehicle southward and back towards Bainbridge. We took a small road to reach Bainbridge, going from the valley of Swaledale over the moor hill (fell) to the adjoining valley of Wensleydale. We had traveled this road last year, but the time of year was different. Flocks of sheep had been moved into the various pastures, and Deb was in and out of the vehicle four times, opening and closing gates as we climbed up and then down the hills. The fog had lifted a bit by now, so we didn’t also have to contend with that, allowing for some gorgeous views up and down the valleys. We arrived in Bainbridge for an evening glass of wine before leaving for Askrigg and our chosen restaurant, The Kings Arms Hotel and Restaurant. Unfortunately, they were booked solid until 8:00, by which time we hoped to be reading with our feet up. We booked for the following evening and then made a quick phone call to another spot, The Aysgarth Falls Hotel, a few villages away. There was a table available so we headed over. the room was modern and the food acceptable. Deb had a pork and chicken pie and Mark a large cheeseburger, accompanied by a pitcher of sparkling water, a glass of Shiraz and a pint of ale. Returning home, we were in our room and reading by 9:00.
Josephine, an accomplished artist, became a patron of the arts. In 1862 she decided to sell John’s wedding gift to her, their home in France, to start their Museum project so they could share their love of art with the people of the area near John’s family home. Sadly, neither of them lived to see their Museum open to the public in 1892. The lead exhibit, the Silver Swan Automaton, was not available for viewing, as it has been withdrawn for conservation. there is a nice article about it on a Wikipedia page (Silver Swan.) After viewing the art of the Bowes, we left Barnards Castle and went up the moor and down into Swaledale, then up again and down into Wensleydale arriving home shortly after 5:00. A quick drop off of our finds of the day and then off to Askrigg to the Kings Arms Hotel for our evening meal.
We both decided on the Steak & Drover’s Ale pie with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables. A delicious choice and very filling. Deb enjoyed a Shiraz and Mark a Theakston Ale. Back home by 8:00, we read until near midnight and turned in, another lovely Yorkshire day (literally) under our belts.
