Wednesday morning we arose with no specific plans in mind. We again had our bangers, bacon, egg, toast and coffee to begin our day. the weather was cool, breezy and rainy. As we ate breakfast rather late, we decided we could do without a lunch as we had dinner reservations at another local pub for 6:00. We showered, Deb in warm water, Mark starting in warm water, which turned to ice halfway through the process!
The facilities in Dinmore Cottage are very nice, but the hot water system is an Immersion system, similar to a coil you plug in to drop into a cup of tea. The heater takes time to heat the water up. It is on a timer and so, if your heater is scheduled for evening bath time and you want a morning shower, one needs to make some adjustments to the timer or flip switchs to turn the hot water on and wait for it to warm up again. Since the cottage is not in use everyday, all day, but a holiday rental, this plan makes sense. All power in the cottage is electric, from the space heaters to the kitchen appliances.
For an American family used to continuously available hot water from a gas fired heater, this is a “novelty” to which we must learn to adapt. Such a hardship - but the price of learning how the rest of the world works. There is also a ceiling heater in the bathroom that ties into the light fixture. It is operated by a pull string switch. Great concept, until someone tugs too hard on the string to turn it back off and breaks the string! Again, we will learn.
After resting a bit after breakfast, reading the NYT and the Omaha World Herald for the meager obituary listings, we are ready to attack the day. Today we decide to do a walk-about of the village of Reeth. First stop is the Scenicview Gallery, to check on publication of the 2027 calendar. We have, each year since our first trip, had one of their gorgeous calendars on or kitchen wall. The photography is stunning; all scenes of the Yorkshire Dales area, mostly up and down the Swaledale area. For the 2026 calendar, which wasn’t available when we were last here, we had tried to order one on-line, which was entirely possible, except they were unable to mail to the USA due to the new tariff rules. Our solution was to order and pay on-line with the shop mailing to our friends in Ireland, who in turn mailed it to us at home.
We walked into the shop, and there was the 2027 calendar, printed and ready for purchase. The owner remembered our troubles from last year’s purchase attempt! He happily sold us next year’s edition which we will tuck into our luggage and hope we don’t misplace at home before January 1, 2027!
Next stop was around the corner to visit some of the craft shops. We stopped at The Nutmeg embroidery shop and Deb procured a couple of very cute embroidery crafts that she thinks she can do at home while watching TV during her retirement. Next door was what we thought was an art gallery, but was actually an artist’s studio and she was sitting there with the door open. We stepped in and then had a wonderful 45 minute visit with Jane Ellis, local artist. We were very taken by some of her work; unfortunately, whatever she had available was framed and too large for our luggage. We were however able to secure a few of her line drawings for cards which we tucked away. It was Jane who told us how much we had missed by not heading up the Northumberland coast from Seahouses to visit the small villages and castles. Deb is still trying to figure out how to get one of her large drawings home!
Next a stroll along the green to another craft shop, the Fleece. Mark chose to spend this time sitting on a nearby bench on the green, admiring the beauty (not dozing as there was a rather stiff breeze, but happily ensconced in his Abigail knit hat and windbreaker). Deb spent some time in the shop visiting with the staff and made some small purchases. The shop was actually an artist’s co-op set-up and had some really interesting one-of-a-kind knickknacks, exactly what we don’t need! Next we crossed the green to the Post Office/ Grocery Shop for some provisions, more eggs, a bottle of Moreland Gin (brewed here in the Swaledale) and a bottle of shampoo. Another lovely visit with the proprietress, and then back up the green to Dinmore Cottage. By then it was cocktail hour and time to sit with our glass of wine prior to ambling back across the village green to our 6:00 reservation at the King’s Arms Hotel.
Built in 1734 by a wealthy local lead mine owner as a private home, The King’s Arms Hotel is one of Reeth’s most iconic buildings. Affectionately known to locals as The Middle House due to its central position among the trio of historic Buiildings facing the village green, it has long been at the heart of village life. The King’s Arms is a warm and welcoming inn, retaining many of its original 18th century features. Exposed oak beams and a magnificent large open fire — the jewel in its crown. Period sash windows, stone fireplaces and historic staircase make this hotel a living piece of Swaldale heritage.
The current establishment is under new ownership and menu. At dinner Deb chose duck breast while Mark picked lamb loin. Both were accompanied by fresh vegetables, asparagus, roast carrots and ramps, A very enjoyable meal. Mark topped it off with a wee dram of Laphroig and an ice cube. We returned to our cozy cottage, lit the fireplace and enjoyed our quiet evening, retiring around 10:00.
Thursday Morning, we finished our breakfast and routed ourselves across the moor towards Askrigg, the village we had stayed in on our last visit. We then turned west towards Hawes as we needed to gas up the vehicle. We parked up and walked the market street of Hawes. We window shopped, stopped in a small Jewelry stall where Deb picked up a pair of amethyst earrings. She had lost one of her current set some time ago, and this simple pair was a great and relatively inexpensive replacement.
We stopped at a small clothing shop where, two years ago, Mark had purchased his “cow suspenders,” known as braces to the locals. Deb spotted a really cool credit card case and after much weighing of color and texture, a sky blue version was calmly tucked away for her future use. We enjoy Hawes greatly as it is the setting for some of our favorite Yorkshire Dales mysteries by author David Gatward. The hero is a former big-city detective who finds himself as the chief of detectives for the Yorkshire Dales area, headquartered in Hawes; Harry Grimm by name.
The town businesses and the surrounding area are intergral to the novels and the places and shops are like characters in their world. A favorite eatery for the Detective Grimm: the Penny Garth Cafe. We passed by and could not resist the temptation to stop in. We sat to enjoy a mug of tea, a coffee, two bowls of absolutely scrumptious mushroom soup, and split an area specialty “Eccles cake,” a pastry with a fig raisin filling and perfectly beautiful crisp, flaky crust.
We walked back to the local Sparta grocery store and picked up a fresh supply of fireplace logs and returned to our vehicle in the parking lot.
Leaving Hawes we next motored towards another favorite stop, Aysgarth Falls and its National Park Center. The aforementioned “orange cone” season caused us a lengthy detour, following multiple “road diversion” signs, but we finally pulled in, parked, used the public facilities, and then stopped into the cafe for the real prize, a chocolate-vanilla swirl gelato cone, one of Deb’s favorite treats, and something we cannot travel to the Dales without obtaining at least once.
Returning to the Dinmore Cottage, we built a fire with our newly acquired firewood supply, broke out two of the airplane sized vodka “shooters” that Deb had brought along and constructed our first Dirty Martini in the Yorkshire Dales. Unable to locate vermouth at the liquor store we had settled for a very dry small bottle of white wine. We also lacked a standard shot glass, so the head bartender had to fall back on past skills of eyeballing the measurements. The results was acceptable. We broke out some cheese and crackers and dined in. TV was watched and we were under the duvet before 10:00.
Friday morning we cooked our last full breakfast, leaving enough sausage and eggs for the evening meal and then struck out towards the northern portion of the National Park for a bit more driving. We ran across an offshoot road towards the village of Crackpot and decided to explore. Some travelers strike out on an unfamiliar road and become lost but in the Dales you can experience an adventure and great beauty! We were still sort of lost, however. We wended along a hillside on a narrow one lane road that, thankfully, provided no oncoming traffic so reverse driving skills were not called into play. We drove up and over the fells, and back down towards Swaledale.
Next we drove northward across some high and unbelievably beautiful open moors following the river and its falls as they run to the East. This is spring, the ewes were all out with their double sets of newborn lambs. As they ran across the fields, they were actually gambolling. what a sight. New lambs everywhere. We know that the price of wool is to the point of making it almost useless; we only have found lamb meat on one restaurant menu, so we are left wondering what happens with all the sheep. Something to investigate. The sky above these peaks is ever changing, from blue to cloud streaked, to totally cloudy. At one point our windshield wipers were beating double time, the next moment we were lowering the shades on the bright sun. Astonishing beauty was everywhere.
Back at the cottage, we began our packing process and then had a last martini while Mark prepared a dinner from our remaining larder. Sausages sliced into rounds and sautéed, then added into the scrambled eggs, accompanied by some red wine and double thick toast. It may not sound like much but it was delicious. We burned the last of our logs, tidied up the kitchen and tucked in for our last night in The Yorkshire Dales.
